The Ajrakh Makers: History & Revival
In the heart of the Kachchh district in Gujarat, India, lies the village of Dhamadka, where a legacy of artistry has been passed down through generations. Meet the Khatris, a family of skilled artisans, who have dedicated their lives to the intricate craft of Ajrakh hand block printing and natural dyeing. This is a tale that spans over four centuries and is deeply interwoven with history, culture, and resilience.
A Textile With a Rich History
The story begins around 400 years ago when the Khatris migrated from Sindh to Kachchh at the invitation of Rao Bharmalji, the region's ruler from 1586 to 1631. The Khatris were given the gift of land and the freedom to choose their place of settlement, free from the burden of taxes. Their ancestors, hailing from the Dhada subcaste, settled in Dhamadka, drawn by the presence of the Saran River, which provided essential running water for the various stages of dyeing and washing cloth. Their clientele was as diverse as it was prestigious, including the royal court and the Maldharis, the herders of Kachchh. For the Maldhari community, Ajrakh is more than just a textile; it's a symbol of identity. Traditionally worn as lungi (the men's lower garment), safa (a head covering), or as malir (the skirt fabric) for women, Ajrakh is deeply woven into their heritage. The Khatris played an essential role in shaping the sartorial identity of the Maldhari community, and their work became synonymous with quality and tradition!
A Turning Point
Originally Hindus, the Khatris converted to Islam during the reign of Rao Rayadhanji, who ruled from 1666 to 1698. The conversion was not merely a matter of faith but a response to economic pressures. As Hindus, they were compelled to make hefty payments and provide costly gifts to the Bhatts, genealogists who maintained records of births, marriages, and deaths within the caste. These expenses became increasingly burdensome, making the Khatris reevaluate their circumstances.
In a pivotal moment, they embraced Islam, drawn by its simplicity and the absence of financial obligations. This decision was not just a change of faith but a path to economic survival, allowing them to break free from the financial shackles that bound them.
Ajrakh: A Legacy Preserved
The Khatris' journey into the world of Ajrakh block printing and natural dyeing began with their arrival in Kachchh. Over the centuries, this craft has been meticulously preserved and passed down through generations. Today, the 11th generation of Khatris is embarking on a journey to continue the legacy their forefathers began, embracing their cultural heritage and the artistry of textiles.
The year 1640 marked a significant turning point when the king of Bhuj invited the Khatris to Dhamadka in Kutch district. This migration from Dhado village in Sindh, Pakistan, aimed to bring the unique craft of Ajrakh hand block printing to Kutch. The demand for these exquisite heritage textiles had grown among specific communities, and the Khatris were determined to fulfill it.
The Artistry & Revival of Ajrakh
In the mid-20th century, the local customers for Ajrakh – the Maldharis – faced challenges in acquiring authentic Ajrakh due to increasing costs. Cheaper synthetic alternatives and chemical dyes began flooding the market, threatening to overshadow the traditional craft. In response, some artisans turned to chemical dyes to survive.
Amidst the changing landscape, late Mohmed Sidik Khatri, the father of Abdul Jabbar, embarked on a mission to revive the traditional natural dyeing methods of Ajrakh. However, he was met with certain challenges. This was when the Industrial Revolution was encouraging machine-made goods over hand-made goods. In this bargain, handmade work was ignored and sidelined, forcing talented artisans like Mohmed Sidik to venture into more commercial practices. However, Mohmed Sidik quickly realized that his heart belonged to the Ajrakh craft, and he decided to find ways to revive it and continue this tradition for as long as possible.
For ten generations, the Khatri family has dedicated themselves to the craft of Ajrakh, taking it to new heights of recognition in India and overseas.
The Legacy Continues
In 2001, a devastating earthquake left Kutch shattered, among them were the artisans in Dhamadka. It was a very huge setback, as people lost their lives, homes, and livelihoods. Slowly and surely, these artisans rose up, unwavering and dedicated. Through hard work and determination, they built new pathways to success.
The 10th and 11th generations of the Khatri family stand as guardians of a rich legacy. They have embraced the teachings of their forefathers and carried forward the craft of Ajrakh with fierce passion. Today, their work is not just craft; it's a testament to the enduring spirit of a family that has weathered centuries of change to preserve the beauty and tradition of Ajrakh.
In every thread and every print, the Khatris' legacy lives on, weaving together the past, the present, and the future in the intricate tapestry of Ajrakh.